Lingua Franca

Greek—the lingua franca of Finikounda

It is remarkable to be in such a cosmopolitan setting where the lingua franca is modern Greek. In the past few days Jonathan has found himself at various tables with Germans, Austrians, Dutch, English, and even a nice Bangladeshi man (named Nur), all conversing in Greek—some better than others.

Speaking of international residents: Jonathan learned about a Russian couple who are renting a friend's house in the village. They drove with their two young children from St. Petersburg to Finikounda, a truly remarkable undertaking.

Last night a young Dutch couple, who have been coming here for the past ten years, declared: “The area around Finikounda is the most beautiful place in the world. And we have lived on every continent in our lives.” Jonathan did not argue that point. This is a truly special place—not just only because of the raw physical beauty, the natural setting, the cobalt sea, the rich agriculture, but also for its residents, local and foreign alike.

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Yesterday Jonathan was invited for lunch at his friend Yiota’s house. It was an incredible meal, one fit for a prince: oven roasted goat, homemade cheeses, an assortment of salads, pasta, baked zuccini, on an on.

Talk turned to the Russian oligarch—a Greek-speaking billionaire from the Pontus region of the Black Sea—who has a fabulous estate outside of nearby Koroni. He is apparently the righthand man to Vladimir Putin, and serves as an economist or economic planner. His peninsular estate is patroled by men toting Kalashnikovs, who do not take kindly to anyone straying too close. The owner has a 300+ foot super yacht, several private seaplanes, and a daughter whose 5-million-euro wedding reception is all the talk of the town. It all seems a bit incongruent in a country on the verge of default. On a bluff facing out to sea, navigators see an enormous Masonic symbol (the “eye”). There is an understanding that the “eye” sees everything, so navigators keep their distance. Putin himself is said to be an occasional guest.

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The still unresolved economic crisis, in which Greece lies in the crosshairs, has an enormous bearing on the summer tourism season, a sector that represents Greece’s only bright spot in a well of red ink. The lies and misrepresentations have scared off the northern European tourists, even many of the Germans who own holiday homes. Jonathan learned that one German family arrived at a hotel recently with a suitcase full of food! They had read in German dailies that there was the possibility of famine here in rural Greece. The concept of nothing to eat in southern Messinia is so utterly absurd, it boggles the imagination. There may be no money, there may be no work, but this place is the Garden of Eden for omnivores, with copious amounts of food, wine, and a range of delicacies to satisfy the hungriest person.