Monday, July 3, 2017

Spetses--25 Year Later

Beach volleyball on Anemomilos Beach, Finikounda--about to block a shot (or throw out his back)


Fire on the Mountain--just above our house


The three of us set off from Finikounda, traversing the full length of the Peloponnese diagonally, with our destination—the Saronic Gulf island of Spetses, birthplace of my grandmother Efstathia (1899) and site of our marriage (1992)—about four hours distant. It was the last full day of extreme heat, with temperatures hovering between 105 and 110 degrees. (The big “break” on Monday clarified the air and lowered the air temperature to a more manageable 92 degrees.)
On the boat to Spetses





Spetses

A small island (8 miles by 4 miles) on the Saraonic Gulf, Spetses is emblematic of old Greece—although it has become a very popular, chic, and over-subscribed weekend holiday resort for wealthy Athenians, especially those with mind-bogglingly large, cliffside villas. Some have their own heliports.

Emblematic Poseidon Hotel on Spetses, built in 1914

We arrived at the small town of Kosta, across the straits from the Peloponnese (about 3 kilometers offshore) and got aboard a traditional caique for the 15-minute ride to the Dapia Harbor, which is ringed by cannons that date to the Greek Revolution of 1821-1832. My forebears, all seafarers, played an oversized role in the naval engagements against the occupying Ottoman Turkish fleet. The heroine of the Spetses fleet was Boubaline, the wife of the admiral (he was killed in the opening volley). She rallied her small fleet (famous for saying in the eye of defeat and retreating comrades: “Am I not the greater man?”), putting on her dead husband’s uniform and three-pointed hat, and leading her fellow Spetsiotes to a justifiably famous naval victory. This occurred in the very bay in which our little boat crossed from the mainland.

The day is reenacted every September, with a full-size wooden warship (a Turkish galleon) fired upon and set ablaze in the outer harbor, while the amused locals sip ouzo and marvel at their good fortune. The Turks were cast out of our family's homeland after 300+ years of brutal occupation. 

Here is a selection of images from our first day on Spetses.

Nia plays soccer with her cousin Kyriakos

Third cousins--great-grandparents were siblings

Nia at Aghia Anagiri beach, on the desolate side of the island--one of the nicest beaches

View of Aghia Anagiri 

Crawling out of the sea cave--entered by swimming and/or slithering

The more refreshing option: swimming into the sea cave

Sea-maid

The light turns your skin luminescent blue--a bizarrely beautiful effect that the toy camera cannot capture

Selfie in an underwater cave

Above the cave entrance



Another view of Aghia Anagiri

Clarity to the bottom at 40 feet

Dapia--Spetses "commercial" harbor (not)

25th anniversary minus one day--still best buddies

St. Nicholas/Aghia Nikola church, Spetses

Yet another food paradise for a growing kid

The Old Harbor (Palaio Limani), Spetses




2 comments:

  1. Love following your family adventures--you are living life the way it should be lived! Hats off to you.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Tears are on my cheeks as they were in 1992. God bless....

    ReplyDelete