Now a roadside planted in oleander, cypress, and citrus trees |
150 meter stone wall--inch by inch, rock by rock |
Back to harvest our olives in November? |
loft stairs |
rudimentary kitchen--a work in progress |
What? Can't I help you? |
Brush fire near our house |
Every Day Is a Celebration
The days count down and soon
Jonathan will head back to Maine—via Munich and Boston, and then an eight-hour drive Downeast. Not counting the drive to Athens on Monday, the journey will take upwards of thirty hours.
This is an exciting (or
nerve-wracking) time for Greece. Here in Finikounda it’s a special weekend. The
church is the repository of a very special icon, a long-ago gift from the
monastic community of Mount Athos, in far northern Greece. The icon of the
Virgin Mary is said to have miraculous qualities, and this is the weekend that
it is celebrated. People were bussed in from all over Greece; there are
ecclesiastical, political, and military representatives in residence for the weekend celebration; and the
community band of nearby Pylos lead the procession—after the church
service—through the village on Saturday morning.
If divine intervention doesn't protect the icon, a phalanx of men and women toting M-16s will do the trick.
The celebrations continue tonight
with the annual dance festival, which is held in the village amphitheater,
located near the fishing harbor. Photos to come.
At 10 a.m. Jonathan arrived in
the village center with his camera, ready to document the morning procession.
He was waylayed by Petros, the Albanian stonemason (who has done work on the house)
and promptly seated for a treat of spit-roasted port and local wine--a local breakfast treat. While the
women and the devout crowded the suffocatingly hot church, the men sat outside,
eating port and drinking wine. But when the icon procession begins, they all stand
reverently, cross themselves, and follow the procession through the village.
The Final (Final) Deadline
Greece’s existential dance with
its creditors draws toward a conclusion of some sort or other—no one is really
sure what that might be. Will it be Catastrophe 2.2 or Resolution 1.1? Like all
things Greek, it will only be known with certainty at the eleventh hour. In the
meantime, bring on the roast pork, finish last year’s wine, and get ready to
dance! Did we mention swim...and swim again? and again?
Both domestically and
internationally, the Greek default negotiations (for no better phrase as this
point) is entirely perilous for all concerned. As an aside, Puerto Rico has
defaulted on it’s debt (at $70 billion, just a quarter of Greece’s), mighty
China is stumbling, the weaker eurozone nations—Portugal, Spain, Ireland, and
Italy—remain highly attuned to the situation, as their fate is also
questionable. There is a rising chorus of voices, both inside Europe and beyond, urging Chancellor Merkel and her utterly joyless finance minister, Wolfgang Schauble, to lighten. Each some pork, drink some wine--take your clothes off Angie, and go for a swim--like most of your countryfolk here in Messinia. It would be a sight to behold.
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And yet life goes on—to use a
tired phrase for which there is no better. The festivals, the music, the song
and dance: Isn't this what really matters? After all, it is summer in Greece. There is time enough to worry for tomorrow--maybe tomorrow?--but today is a day of celebration.
It is perhaps apt that Jonathan
arrived at the apex of the crisis and will leave at the conclusion of the
crisis. Or during a deeper crisis. Either there will accommodation (and relief) or no accommodation--and a bonafide Greek tragedy will ensue, the likes of this country has not seen since the (first) German occupation.
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