Hey There, Bebe
Last night Jonathan and Dimitri visited the Thines Campground, just west of the village, where the two enjoyed an unusual feast—freshly speared fish and wild, migratory birds called ορτίκη (ortiki). The birds migrate from northern Russia and North Africa. As the campground owner commented: Τρώμε ολα που πηταιε και ολα που κολουμβαιε (“we eat everything that flies, and everything that swims).
In the early morning, Jonathan applied a second coat of
varnish on the new wood, inside and out, perhaps the final house task on his
penultimate day in Finikounda.
Nearer to midday, he was treated to a cruise aboard <Μπεμπη> (Bebe), just as the air
cleared and the wind began to rise. Captain Kosta motored his sixty-year-old
caique, a traditional Greek fishing vessel, to the offshore Oinousses islands
(Sapienza, Santa Maria, and Schiza), exercising some degree of prudence as the
sea gradually built. Within a few hours, a stiff breeze had become a full gale.
We anchored at the remote (accessible only by water or
by narrow path) beach of Marathi, in the general vicinity of last week’s wild
fires, where we swam and had some refreshments. Getting back to Finikounda
harbor required no small amount of skill and persistence.
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