We are blessed with an abundance of family here on the island of Spetses--some known to us, others emerging from the woodwork. Jonathan, his sister Dyan, and brother Gregory count some 12 or 13 second cousins here, plus a handful of aunts and uncles, and a smattering of distant relatives. The common relative is our grandmother, Efstathia Argitis, who was born on the island in 1899. We all grew up with her stories of life in Spetses, then a poor and isolated place, at the turn of the 20th century. How times have changed. Today Spetses is home to Greece's jet set, with more heliports than streetlights (hint: there are no streetlights).
We spent much of our active day cycling, running, and languishing on the beach. After siesta, Jonathan ran again--to a quiet cove where he swam, despite the pounding surf from the summertime meltemi, a northwest gale that is bain of sailors, ferryboat captains, and other aquatic enthusiasts. In such conditions, the best bet is heading to the relative shelter of the south side of the island, which retains the old, unspoiled glory of pine trees, secluded coves, and remnants of the old ways. This is our plan for tomorrow--Manny and Jonathan have rented two motorcycles; the girls will meet the boys at the beach of Agia Argyri, Agia Paraskevi, and Xylokistro by bus.
After siesta, we trekked to Aunt Paraskevi's house for a visit that included plates of homemade kerasia (cooked cherries in thick syrup) and ice cream.
In the early evening Ann and Jonathan watched a nearly full moon rise from the ocean, while Manny, Lucia, and Evyenia walked ahead of us, dodging the horse-drawn carriages.
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