24 February 2009
Tuesday



The five of us set off for a hike up through the valley, leaving the ocean behind us.

We followed a winding gravel track that lead us through an endless collection of olive groves, recently pruned vineyards, and stretches of amazing wildflowers: crimson poppies, purple wild irises, and gentle waves of amber undergrowth.

Aside from several crumbing stone buildings, relics from several centuries ago, there were no houses and few signs of life.

We could hear the sound of fast water moving through the center of the valley and knew that, if a true circuit was our goal—as opposed to an out-and-back hike—fjording the unseen stream would be necessary.

We cut across the valley, stopping at a chapel to Ayios Ioannis (Saint John), with a hobbit-sized door that was unlocked. We entered the darkend chapel and marveled at the icons, none of them particularly old but in a style unfamiliar to us. The images of saints and biblical stories had a decidedly Eastern feel, an Orientalizing rendition of St. John, Christ Pantocrator, the Virgin Mary. Evyenia was particulary taken by the images of St. John before and after decapitation.

Saint Irini

We have been on the receiving end our landlady Irini’s filoxenia—“hospitality” is too mild a word to describe her kindness and generosity. Yesterday she delivered a bowl of the most plump, purple, and delectible olives we have ever eaten, along with several kilos of extra virgin oil, both products of the family’s land.

Several hours ago she appeared with a plate of pork from the whole pig that her mother had roasted in an outside pit on Sunday. It was a much welcomed offering, which allows us save our dearly priced groceries for another day.

Late Winter Village Clean-up

There is an effort underway to spruce up the village in advance of the summer season. Today’s undertaking by “Finikounda Public Works” (i.e., a guy who mostly drinks coffee and smokes cigarettes) is the trimming of the palm trees. He does exceptional work when he works, which is not too often.



Tomorrow will rise early and catch the 7 a.m. bus to the nearby village and regional demos (municipality) of Methoni. Our mission: apply for our extended residency permit, hike about the Venetian castle, find the isapia (horse-back riding) school--so Lucia will stop asking!--and find the sweet shop. Not necessarily in that order!

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